This from Bruce Burgin (Photographer based in Beckley, WV) www.photographyart.com/Bruce_Burgin
Concerning some history in the introduction of the guidebook.

Bruce, "Nick Brash and I climbed together. Rick and Nick never were partners. Rick Skidmore, TA Horton, Hobart Parks were from Charleston, WV and Nick and I were from Beckley, WV. In the late 70's we would occasionally run into Rick and his friends but it was rare."

Endless Wall update

Skin the Thief -5.10a Start 60' left of Jacob's Ladder. Climb flake/crack to shallow corner, up & left through pocketed face, finish up & right to ring anchor. FA Dave Quinn 10/03/03. 7 bolts to LO's (hand drilled rawl 3/8x3 1/2", 1/2" on anchors)

One Fingered Pic-Pocket -5.10c 60' right of Jacobs ladder. Start just left of leaning tree, or climb the start of Skin the Thief. Follow bolts just left of the leaning tree, past a one finger pocket crux. Shared anchor w/Skin the thief. Long sling or draw helpful for last bolt. FA Dave Quinn 5/26/04. 6 bolts to shared LO's w/skin the thief.

Someone brought to my attention that The Grafenberg Crack (Endless Wall) was accidently left out of the index.

Mike Williams completed the first free ascent of Jazz Roock Confusion at Endless Wall mid October. This route was bolted many years ago by Rick Thompson and had never seen a free ascent until Mike came along and worked on it for one week. Mike said the route was around 5.13b/c and is characterised by several very difficult boulder moves near the end of the thin crack that the line follows. Nice job!!

Photo - Mike Williams on Jazz Rock Confusion

This was sent in by Dan Brayack.

Steve, Hey, just an FYI, Seeing Stars, 11d, pp 95 of the guide actually starts just ridge of the crevasse, just about where S-E points on your Direction Arrow., It climbs the left arete of the boulder you have labeled (Tunnel). It was called "Seeing Stars" because you can see climbers on it while you come down the ladder. Rumor is that while Rico was doing the FA, someone came down the ladder and was like "IS THAT RICK THOMPSON!?!" -Danno

Here are some new routes posted by j_ung on http://www.RockClimbing.com

Head down the normal Whipperwill approach gully, but turn left at the lakebed. Routes begin just past the first huge roof.

Aimee's Jugs

Difficulty: 5.6
Protection: Sport
Description: Follow the wildly featured rock under the line of bolts left of East Meck Shoot Out.

Brokeback Mountain*

Difficulty: 5.10a
Protection: 7 or 8 bolts to anchor
Description: Scramble up onto a low ledge, layback a tiny dihedral and follow a flaring crack to the finishing slab. Work through the slab on slopers (crux).

Charlotte Corner*

Difficulty: 5.10b
Protection: Trad, w/anchor
Description: Pull a head-high roof to gain the striking hanging dihedral capped by another roof.

Crunchy Cowboy

Difficulty: 5.10a
Protection: Mixed: 3 bolts and gear
Description: The first route right of Saddle Sores. Start on the left edge of a person-sized hueco and follow three bolts through a small roof (crux). Step right to a crack system and head for the anchor.

East Meck Shoot Out

Difficulty: 5.7
Protection: Trad, no anchor
Description: The line of least resistance that starts 15 feet left of the Wendy's Jugs arête. Angle right near the top to end on the ledge above the Wendy's Jugs anchor.

Flounder

Difficulty: 5.11b
Protection: Bolts, anchor
Description: Bring your finger tips! Pretty, orange, steep slab leads to a large ledge with an anchor.

Holy Mackerel

Difficulty: 5.8
Protection: Trad
Description: Climb the right side of the giant hanging flake. (Stay away from the fragile left side!)

Project #1

Difficulty:
Protection: Bolts
Description: The first line of bolts from the approach, just left of the obvious Charlotte Corner.

Project #2

Difficulty: 5.12?
Protection: Bolts
Description: The right side line of bolts that starts from the Brokeback Mountain ledge.

Saddle Sores

Difficulty: 5.10c
Protection: Trad
Description: The obvious arching crack that starts on the Brokeback Mountain ledge. Follow the crack to the big horizontal under the small roof, then step left to finish on slopers.

Straight Outta Lockmont

Difficulty: 5.9
Protection: Mixed, bolts and gear
Description: Hard moves off the deck (crux) lead to an featured white face protected by three bolts. After the face, pull the bulge on drop-in stopper placements and perfect finger locks to another bolt, then follow the path of least resistance to an anchor.

Tocos Pescados

Difficulty: 5.11c
Protection: Bolts
Description: Start in the steep black rock left of Holy Mackerel and follow the shallow dihedral to the top.

Wendy's Jugs*

Difficulty: 5.8
Protection: Four bolts to anchor
Description: A clean arete split by a small roof (crux). Connect the amazing wrap-around jugs to ride the arete all the way to the anchor.

The new guidebook is complete and I hope to add updates and corrections to this web site. If you have new routes or find mistakes in the new guidebook, send me an email so I can post the info here. scater72@hotmail.com