Sunday, March 19, 2006

Here are some new routes posted by j_ung on http://www.RockClimbing.com


Head down the normal Whipperwill approach gully, but turn left at the lakebed. Routes begin just past the first huge roof.


Aimee's Jugs

Difficulty: 5.6
Protection: Sport
Description: Follow the wildly featured rock under the line of bolts left of East Meck Shoot Out.

Brokeback Mountain*

Difficulty: 5.10a
Protection: 7 or 8 bolts to anchor
Description: Scramble up onto a low ledge, layback a tiny dihedral and follow a flaring crack to the finishing slab. Work through the slab on slopers (crux).


Charlotte Corner*

Difficulty: 5.10b
Protection: Trad, w/anchor
Description: Pull a head-high roof to gain the striking hanging dihedral capped by another roof.

Crunchy Cowboy

Difficulty: 5.10a
Protection: Mixed: 3 bolts and gear
Description: The first route right of Saddle Sores. Start on the left edge of a person-sized hueco and follow three bolts through a small roof (crux). Step right to a crack system and head for the anchor.

East Meck Shoot Out

Difficulty: 5.7
Protection: Trad, no anchor
Description: The line of least resistance that starts 15 feet left of the Wendy's Jugs arĂȘte. Angle right near the top to end on the ledge above the Wendy's Jugs anchor.

Flounder

Difficulty: 5.11b
Protection: Bolts, anchor
Description: Bring your finger tips! Pretty, orange, steep slab leads to a large ledge with an anchor.

Holy Mackerel

Difficulty: 5.8
Protection: Trad
Description: Climb the right side of the giant hanging flake. (Stay away from the fragile left side!)

Project #1

Difficulty:
Protection: Bolts
Description: The first line of bolts from the approach, just left of the obvious Charlotte Corner.

Project #2

Difficulty: 5.12?
Protection: Bolts
Description: The right side line of bolts that starts from the
Brokeback Mountain ledge.

Saddle Sores

Difficulty: 5.10c
Protection: Trad
Description: The obvious arching crack that starts on the
Brokeback Mountain ledge. Follow the crack to the big horizontal under the small roof, then step left to finish on slopers.

Straight Outta Lockmont

Difficulty: 5.9
Protection: Mixed, bolts and gear
Description: Hard moves off the deck (crux) lead to an featured white face protected by three bolts. After the face, pull the bulge on drop-in stopper placements and perfect finger locks to another bolt, then follow the path of least resistance to an anchor.

Tocos Pescados

Difficulty: 5.11c
Protection: Bolts
Description: Start in the steep black rock left of Holy Mackerel and follow the shallow dihedral to the top.

Wendy's Jugs*

Difficulty: 5.8
Protection: Four bolts to anchor
Description: A clean arete split by a small roof (crux). Connect the amazing wrap-around jugs to ride the arete all the way to the anchor.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

Links to this post:

Create a Link

<< Home